ayamegusa

purple iris

Basho’s Diary,
Sendai,
May 4th to 8th,
16th year of Genroku

Crossing the Natori River, we entered Sendai on the day when the irises were in full bloom. We found a place to stay and stayed four or five days. An artist by the name of Kaemon lived here. A man of some ability with whom I became acquainted. We toured together for a day. The clover in Miyagino was lush, the air was misty. Tamada, Yokono, and Tsujigaoka were white with rhododendrons. We entered a grove of pine trees called “under the tree.” It was because the dew was so thick in the past that it was called “Misaburahimikasa.” This meant to say, “Servants, present your master a hat.” The dew underneath the tree is wetter than the rain. Before the day ended, we visited the Yakushido and Tenjin shrines.

In parting, he gave me two paintings of Matsushima and Shiogama and a pair of straw sandals woven with Iris grass. How a man of refined taste is thoughtful.

Iris grass —
tied to the feet
the straps of straw sandals.

Iris —
Blossoming
On my feet?

あやめ艸足に結ん草鞋の緒
ayamegusa ashi ni musuban waraji no o

ayamegusa (あやめ艸), a combination of ayame, meaning iris, and gusa (Chinese, cao) meaning grass. In a medical and spiritual context, a medicinal herb with a fragrant smelling root that is said to ward off evil spirits. A way of saying “bon voyage.”

Sendai, a seaport on Japan’s eastern coast. At this point Basho headed into the interior crossing over to the west coast, a little less than half way through his journey on what would become Oku no Hosomichi.

Matsushima and Shiogama, two places on the coast that Basho visited. Matsushima is known for its pines. Matsuo Basho would surely have seen the connection with his own name, Matsuo.

Miyagino is the name of a god, but apparently also a suburb of Sendai.

As a travel guide, Basho gives us very little to no information about the two Buddhist shrines he visited.

Several English translations Basho’s journey exist. Here is one.

Sendai 仙台- 18

Oku no Hosomichi奥の細道

Station 18 – Sendai 仙台, Miyagi Prefecture, May 4th, 1689

Crossing the Natori River entering Sendai, stronghold of the Daimyō Date Masamune, capital of Miyagi Prefecture. On the way to beautiful Matsushima Bay.

Irises blooming
On my feet,
Straw sandals laced in blue.

あやめ艸足に結ん草鞋の緒
ayamegusa ashi ni musuban waraji no o

Oku no Hosomichi, Sendai, May, 1689, Matsuo Basho

Note. Ayamegusa the iris, literally sweet flag. In Basho’s time, on the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, it was custom to attach irises to the thatched roof so that evil could not invade the home. Wearing sandals woven with ribbon the color of the blue iris hopefully would make for a safe journey. The word Ayamegusa is old Japanese.

From Basho’s journal:

“Crossing the River Natori, I entered Sendai, on a day when traditionally irises bring us good luck.* There I found an inn, and decided to stay for four or five days. In this city, there was a painter named Kaemon (a disciple of the haiku poet, hajin, Michikaze Oyodo). I wanted to hear and know him, for he was said to be a spiritual man. One day he took me to several place which I might have missed without his help. First, we went to the plain of Miyagino, where fields of bush-clover were waiting to blossom in autumn. Then, to the hills of Tamada, Yokono, and Tsutsuji-ga-oka, covered with white rhododendrons in full bloom. In the dark pine woods called Konoshita, sun beams could not penetrate. This, the darkest spot on the earth, has been the subject of poetry for its dewiness.  As an example, one poet says that his lord needs an umbrella to protect him from the drops of dew.”

iris-blue-2

We also stopped at the shrines of Yakushido and Tenjin on our way home.

Saying good-bye, this refined painter then gave me his own drawings of Matsushima and Shiogama, and two pairs of straw sandals with laces dyed in the deep blue of the iris, representing most clearly the meaning of this man.

*Fuku Hi, ふく日

The thatched roof of a Japanese cottage often contained a crown of irises. In May we can picture these flowers gently waving in the wind. Little boys, being boys, pretending that the leaves were swords, engaging in mock sword play. In his journal, Basho refers to あやめふく日也, Ayame Fuku Hiya, that is Irises on Good Fortune Day.

June 2022

Along the ponds and lakes here in Kansas, the yellow iris is in full bloom. In my yard the purple iris droops, its colorful flower too heavy for the stock. I am reminded of my French grandmother who lined the driveway to her home in North Carolina with irises. A child feels that the flowers are blooming to humbly greet each visitor.

sandals-oil