[Note. This post was originally written in mid-July, two weeks after a long trip to Colorado, Wyoming, Idaho, and Montana. A week after a noisy, smoke filled July Fourth Weekend.]

Spring is long over. It is the middle of July and the weatherman is bemoaning the record heat on the east and west coast of the United States. And, although I am not there, a click on the computer tells me it will be in the 90s in Tokyo and there will be a mix of clouds and sun this morning followed by mostly cloudy skies and a few showers this afternoon.

Following Basho’s five month journey into Japan’s northern interior (Oku no Hosomichi) in 1689, Basho decided to delay his return to Edo to work on the notes he recorded and the haiku that he wrote on the journey. Throughout the fall and winter Basho spent time visiting with friends. Then, in the spring of 1690, a friend, Suganuma Kyokusui 菅沼曲水, offered up a cottage on Lake Biwa for Basho to rest and recoup.

This was the Genjū-an 幻住庵, the Hut of the Phantom Resident. Alone with his thoughts, Basho composed the “Notes of Genju-an,” (Genju-an-ki, 幻住庵記). The “phantom” for whom the cottage is named for an unknown samurai who abandoned his profession for seclusion.

“Spring is over. I can tell that it hasn’t been gone for long, for Azaleas continue to bloom, wisteria droops like rope from the pine trees, and a cuckoo now and then passes by. Even the blue-jays have sing their greetings, and woodpeckers, as woodpeckers do, peck at things, though I don’t really mind. Indeed, I rather enjoy the company.

I feel my spirit drawn to China to view the scenery in Wu or Chu (ancient Chinese States of the Warring Period when Confucius lived), or as if I were standing beside the lovely Xiao-Xiang rivers, or Lake Dongting. [see below]

Southwest of here, the mountains rises behind me. The nearest houses are a good distance away. Southern breezes with their refreshing fragrances blow down from the mountain tops, and north winds, dampened by the lake, are cool. Among the mountains are Mount Hie and the tall peak of Hira. And on this side of these mountains are the pines of Karasaki veiled in mist, as well as a castle, and a view of a bridge. On the lake fishermen with their boats are hauling in fish. I hear the voice of the woodsman making his way to Mount Kasatori. Then too, are the songs of the seedling planters in the rice paddies at the foot of Kasatori. At dusk, the fireflies weave through the air, clapper rails (chicken-like marsh birds) tap out their notes – surely I do not lack for beautiful scenes. Among them, Mikamiyama, shaped like Mount Fuji, reminds me of my old house in Edo – Musashino [see below]. Mt.Tanakami [see below] sets me to counting all the ancient poets who are associated with it.”
Matsuo Basho, from the Notes of Genju-an, Summer 1690

Notes. “You had to be there.” A phrase meaning Basho’s references only make sense if one had been present. It is a philosophical thing. Present impressions are best, then come memories, and by association an explanation of a place one has never to.

Lake Biwa. Japan’s largest inland lake. Basho spent much time here. He chose to be buried at the Gichū-ji Temple at Otsu, on Lake Biwa.

Hira Mountain Range, west of Lake Biwa providing a stunning snow capped view of the lake. Compare the Grand Tetons and Jackson, Wyoming.

Pine trees at Karasaki. Thousand year old pine trees, part of the Eight Views of Omi.

Xiao-Xiang. The Eight Views of Xiao-Xiang in Hunan province was a famous series of paintings from the Song dynasty. They, in turn, inspired the Eight Views of Omi, around Lake Biwa where Basho was staying. Basho is comparing Lake Dongting to Lake Biwa.

Mt. Mikamiyama, along the shores of Lake Biwa, an extinct volcano and much smaller version of Mt. Fuji.

Mushashino. This home in western Tokyo must have been Basho’s home when he first arrived in Edo before Basho-an.

Mt.Tanakami. It is known for its cypress trees. The reference is unclear. Perhaps because of Tanka 短歌, meaning a “short poem” and a genre of classical Japanese poetry.

The castle mentioned is likely Zeze Castle. The bridge Setanokara, see the image below.

P.S.

One always relies on others. Much of the information for this post, including the quote, comes from Gabi Greve, Darumapedia, Daruma Museum Japan.