As in Shakespeare’s, A Midsummer Night’s Dream, for Matsuo Basho, a visit to an ancient castle ruin on midsummer day becomes dream-like.
Summer grass —
what’s left of
a brave warrior’s dream夏草や 兵どもが 夢の跡
natsukusa ya tsuwamono domo ga yume no ato
Matsuo Basho, Oku no Hosomichi, June 1689
Notes on Translation — natsukusa (summer grass) ya (emphasis) tsuwamono (a brave warrior, samurai) domo (very) ga (but, used to show contrast) yume (dream) no (of, possessive showing a relationship) ato (left behind)
Hiraizumi
In Matsuo Basho’s Journey into the Northern Interior (Oku no Hosomichi), Basho takes us into a dream-like world of the samurai at Hiraizumi.
Three weeks on the journey into Japan’s northern interior, 230 miles (380 kilometers), as the crow flies from Edo. Lost for two days on a lonely mountain trail, making only 10 miles a day on foot, Matsuo Basho and Sora have come to tiny Hiraizumi (平泉), in Iwate Prefecture, home to the lost glory of the Fujiwara clan. Once known as the “mirror of Kyoto” and capital of the historic North.
Fujiwara no Hidehira (藤原 秀衡, c. 1122-1187) was the third ruler of Northern Fujiwara clan in northern Mutse Province (today, Iwate). He sheltered the samurai Minamoto no Yoshitsune, who fell out of favor with his brother Minamoto no Yoritomo. In 1187, Hidehira died, but not before exacting a promise from his son to continue to shelter Yoshitsune. 1189, Yoritiomo surrounded the Fujiwara castle with his troops. Yoshitsune committed seppuku and Yoritomo destroyed the castle, killing Hidehira’s son, ending, as Basho says, “three glorious generations” of brave warriors.
Basho writes:
“June 29, 1689, the glory of three generations of the Fujiwara clan
Matsuo Basho, Oku no Hosomichi, at Hiraizumi, June 1689
passed as if in a dream. The ruins of the Great Gate (大門, daimon) lie less than half a mile from the castle.”
Changing Directions
At this point, barely a month into the journey, Basho concludes that it is time to quit traveling north. Time to head west, across Japan’s interior by way of the swiftly flowing Mogami River, then home, back along the western coast.
Chinese poets of the Tang dynasty also wrote of the devastation of war. One well known poem by Du Fu, goes, in part, “Our country is in ruins, while hills and streams remain. In Spring, grass and trees grow in the cities…”











